ready for the Iditarod start

the race has started

only 1,000 more miles to go

only a couple of more feet to go

the Reno 911 bunch at
the Miners and Trappers Ball

me and one of the ladies at the ball

me on the glacier

helicopter landing on the glacier

CALIFORNIA:
Live Chinatown
By Ann Terry Hill

Most tourists head for Chinatown when visiting San Francisco and most don’t get off Grant Avenue. For an in-depth sojourn into this community and culture, the alleys and side streets, actually into the soul of the Chinese community, sign up for one of Shirley Fong-Torres’ WOK WIZ CHINATOWN Tours.

Shirley’s a native, although her father came to the US from Canton, via the Philippines. She has carved a niche unequaled in getting to ‘know the territory, writing cook books, doing TV shows and advising the menus for HAWAIIAN AIRLINES.’ She is San Francisco’s ‘China Doll.’ Currently she is working on her next book, THE WOMAN WHO ATE CHINATOWN, which will be released later this Fall, and includes San Francisco’s Chinese history along with a cookbook at the back.

With 10 guides working for her, all of whom are descendents of immigrants, all in their 50s and 60s and all who speak fluent Cantonese, these escorts offer you a two hour experience deep into the heart of San Francisco’s Chinatown—history, architecture, religion, shopping, stops at shops where you can sample the famous teas, nibble a fortune cookie, or pick up some long desired souvenir followed by a fabulous dim sum lunch. You have a choice; ‘The Wok Wiz Tour,’ or ‘I Can’t Believe I Ate My Way Through Chinatown Tour.’

Believe me, readers, this is fun! Walking the streets of Chinatown, San Francisco, on a beautiful Fall day with the Bay sparkling in the background—it doesn’t get any better.
Oops, it does---enjoying the 7 course dim sum luncheon is the Grand Finale and can’t be beat.

Check out Shirley’s web site: www.wokwiz.com for schedules and costs.

Hidden Gems:
THREE UNFORGETTABLE NIGHTS IN SAN FRANCISCO
(Hidden Gems of the City by the Bay)
by Ann Terry Hill

The lure of a few days in San Francisco is always enticing…I visit every time I have the chance.

On the last week in September, the fog lifted, the sunlight bounced off the sparkling blue water in the Bay, Coit Tower stood out like a beacon atop Telegraph Hill, the city at its feet. Enjoying a view like that, it was hard to tear myself away for other adventures . San Francisco was calling---three full days to discover the “Hidden Gems of the City by the Bay” and to visit old haunts. It doesn’t get any better!

Made-to-order September weather, with just a touch of cool from the breeze off the Pacific, guaranteed that walking would be a pleasure. This City was made for human bipeds. History, restaurants, multi-cultures, architecture, shopping; San Francisco has it all, as well as being one of the most romantic cities in the world. Savor the international flavor. The City is the melting pot of the West: Little Italy, Chinatown, the Vietnam section and Mission district (Latino) are but a few of the distinct neighborhoods you will find here.



Staying in the new Hilton Financial District Hotel (www.sanfranciscohiltonhotel.com) with the crossroads of Chinatown, North Beach and the Financial District right out its front door, all I had to do was decide what to see and do first. Wonderful aromas from Dim Sum(Cantonese for heart’s delight) kitchens filled the air, and my stomach told me it was time to search out lunch. But first, Shirley Fong-Torres’ Wok Wiz walking tour of Chinatown was on the list. (www.wokwiz.com)

Fong-Torres, noted chef and humorist, is also a popular cookbook author. Her latest entry in cookbooks is THE WOMAN WHO ATE CHINATOWN, coming out at year’s end. Her commentary on the Wok Wiz tour adds a bright new dimension to a walk through Chinatown. After wandering Grant Avenue (it’s Grant Avenue in Chinatown and Grant Street in North Beach) and the nearby side streets for 1-1/2 hours and shopping for exotic teas at the Red Blossom Tea Company, I succumbed to those hunger pangs without feeling guilty. Fong-Torres took our group to the Imperial Palace and ordered Dim Sum. The waiters just kept bringing surprises—mouthwatering morsels such as steamed dumplings, shrimp balls, spring rolls, steamed buns and Chinese pastry.

After a lunch like that, a trip to TRU Spa located in the Hilton, and voted best day spa in the city by ALLURE Magazine, was just the way to digest the meal and pamper the body.. After all, I had to work up an appetite for the 5-course Italian meal at Ristorante Ideale (415-391-4129) in North Beach that evening! Although the restaurant is walkable from the hotel, it is great fun to hop on one of Mr. Toad’s vintage (pre-1930) cars for a tour of North Beach, before being delivered in style to the front door of Ristorante Ideale.(www.mrtoadstours.com)

Maurizio Bruschi, owner/chef of Ristorante Ideale , an authentic Italian dining establishment, has been in San Francisco for 15 years. He produces food to delight the most jaded connoisseur’s palate, yet it’s hard to understand a word he says with his thick Italian accent. He communicates by waving his hands, Italian fashion with grand gestures.. His food is delicious, in any language.

What better way to spend the next morning than with Daniel Bacon, historian and author of WALKING SAN FRANCISCO ON THE BARBARY COAST TRAIL?(www.barbarycoasttrail.org)

The trail is well marked with bronze plaques in the sidewalk which makes following it easy. Starting at Portsmouth Square, now known as the birthplace of the California Gold Rush Bacon makes history electric. His enthusiasm is contagious as he describes that history changing day in May 1848 when the American River gold strike was announced for the first time in this Square which was then known as Yerba Buena.

Further along the trail, Bacon tells the story of how a change in the winds spared Hotaling street, and A. P. Hotaling’s supply of whiskey (he was the supplier to the entire Barbary Coast) during the fire that followed the 1906 earthquake. As Bacon relates, many uprighteous citizens were saying the disaster was retribution for San Francisco’s hedonistic ways, but one San Franciscan was inspired to write: “If, as they say, God spanked the town for being over frisky, Why did he burn the churches down and spare Hotaling’s whiskey?”. Our walk took us by 601 Montgomery, headquarters of the Pony Express (1860-61) and now a Historical Landmark. The youngest of the riders was a 14 year-old who later became famous as Buffalo Bill Cody.

The Barbary Coast trail can take an entire day as it winds through the downtown, Chinatown, the Barbary Coast, North Beach and the northern waterfront terminating at Fisherman’s Wharf and Aquatic Park. From there I hopped on the Powell-Hyde Street Cable Car line for a ride over historic Nob Hill, home of the Bonanza Kings and Railroad Barons to return to downtown. It’s possible to get off and on the Cable Car anywhere along the route, but you have to pay a new fee each time you jump back on. The ride ends back at the starting point of the tour across from the Old U.S. Mint at Hallidie Plaza at Market where the BART Station and the Cable Car turnaround are located.

The Westfield San Francisco Centre on Market, on the site of the old Emporium building, is only a block or two away from the Cable Car turnaround, so it’s convenient to do a little ‘Big City’ shopping. The glorious dome of the original store still exists. When the Emporium originally opened in 1896 it was hailed as the most elegant store in the country. The Westfield Centre which now occupies this space is just as grand. Bloomingdales opened their largest store outside of NYC in The Centre in 2006. Along with Nordstrom, also housed here, this is a ‘don’t miss opportunity to ‘shop ‘til you drop.’

As far as I’m concerned, no trip to San Francisco is complete without dinner at one of the oldest and most reliable establishments in town: Sam’s Grill & Seafood Restaurant..(415-421-0594). Make sure to reserve a private booth, not a table. Make sure, too, to be served by Frank Morelli. Morelli has waited tables at Sam’s for about 36 years. Don’t even bother to look at the menu , let Frank suggest. My favorite is a heaping plate of fresh fried calamari topped off by Frank’s special salad. (You won’t find this on the menu.) It’s enough to say that Clint Eastwood and I share the same tastes and booth at Sam’s—unfortunately, on different nights!

Even the best of trips end. As I stroll the five blocks from Sam’s back to the Hilton the fog horns begin their mournful, melancholy evening wail. Stopping in the Hilton hotel’s ‘Lounge at Seven Fifty’ breaks this lonely mood. The warm fire and jazz offered here nightly cheers me as I enjoy a final nightcap and head to my room for a last look at the view of the city and bay before retiring.

Tomorrow it’s au revoir…or to paraphrase, “The song is ended, but the memory lingers on.”

P.S. If you’re going to be in The City between January 15-31, enjoy the popular Dine Around Program which allows you to experience some of the best restaurants without breaking the bank.

www.onlyinsanfrancisco.com
( Updated - November, 2007)

PALM SPRINGS
by Ann Terry Hill

A trip to Palm Springs in late November left me thinking this is a place I will return time and time again. Sheltered by the Little San Bernardino Mountains to the north, the Santa Rosa Mountains on the south and the San Jacinto Mountains to the west with its towering 10,837 feet Mt. San Jacinto, the climate is dry. This is also where you will find the famed Palm Springs Tramway, The area boasts 354 days of sun annually. With a village like setting, without too much traffic, and all the amenities of resort living at your beck and call---what’s not to like.

January, February, March and April are prime time in this desert oasis. The temperature is mild, the days sunny, the golf and tennis great, the restaurants outstanding, the shopping unparalleled and the entertainment hard to beat. In fact, it’s difficult to find time to lounge by the pool. Just come here and veg. And people have been doing it for years.

In the 20s and 30s in was Hollywood’s playground, close enough for the stars to work, but great for a weekend get-away. The International set soon discovered it, and today it remains a prime winter destination, not only for jet setters, but for thousands of regular folk trying to escape winter’s hardships. Accommodations can qualify at any level, from bungalow to private villas. The Palm Springs Visitor’s Center will make reservations for you free of charge. www.palm-springs.org or for surrounding desert communities www.giveintothedesert.com



One of my picks 20 minutes outside Palm Springs in Cabazon, California, is the Morongo Casino-Resort-Spa, less expensive that in the village but with major amenities and constant shuttle service to the nearby Outlet Shopping Center. This isn’t just any Outlet Mall, the shops here are designer quality. You can pick up an original at an exceptional savings and who would ever know you didn’t pay full retail!

Mrs. Flo Ziegfeld (aka Billie Burke and a star in her own right) once made the comment, “Age doesn’t matter unless you are a cheese.” The Palm Springs Follies cast proves this is true. Going into its second decade of entertaining, these former movie stars, show girls, Rockettes, and vaudevillian performers, now in their 60s to 80s put on a show 9 times a week during the Winter Season that equals anything on Broadway. Feathers, furs, sequins, showgirls wearing 3 inch heels coming down the staircase without a misstep, music and sets with the romance and glamour of the 30s, 40s, 50s. The Follies hark back to the Golden Age of true American entertainment. When an 84 year old lovely with a figure of someone in her 20s can do the splits, and even more amazing, get up afterwards, the show is inspirational as well. Makes you want to go right home and take up tap dancing! . The performers are ageless Upcoming headliners include The Four Aces- January 9-February 9, Melba Moore- February 12-March 22, and Anna Maria Alberghetti- March 26-May 17. . www.psfollies.com Be sure to include the Follies during your stay in Palm SpringsDining in the area offers a myriad of choices....from piano bars , jazz and supper clubs, to hundreds of restaurants with a wide range in variety and price. Plus The Follies, the McCallum Theatre for the Performing Arts and the Annenberg Theater in the Palm Springs Desert Museum offer top talent in the evenings.

Choices for activities are wide. The great weather in the area makes you want to get out and hike the trails, or bike, if you’re not otherwise occupied in a golf or tennis game.

Be sure The Indian Canyons are on your list. These undisturbed natural wonders are a ‘must see.’ The Palm Springs Art Museum is nationally acclaimed and along with its permanent collection often hosts top touring exhibitions. The Living Desert Zoo and Gardens are open all year long and feature 1,200 acres of wildlife and a botanical park with rare and endangered desert animals and African wildlife , hiking trails and picnic areas. And did I mention the Palm Springs tram that takes you to the top of Mt. San Jacinto for a breathtaking view of the valley below. The revolving car in which you take the ride gives you a 360 degree view up and down for the approximately 15 minute ride one-way. You can’t say you’ve really seen Palm Springs until you’ve taken the tram!

There’s much more to see and do---too many choices to mention here. Best you check it out for yourself. www.palm-springs.org As the rain is falling here in western Oregon, and the grey days seem endless, and as I write this, I’m so inspired, I’m seriously considering packing my bag and heading back to the desert for a Winter break. Palm Springs is so accessible with its own International Airport, and Orange County and L.A. airports not far away it makes getting there easy.

www.annterryhill.com

CRUISES

2007 Runner up in NATJA national competition for best Cruise story of the year

LEWIS & CLARK MISSED THE BOAT
River Cruising is DELOVELY

A room with a kaleidoscopic view! Mount Hood, St. Helens, Multnomah Falls, Hells Canyon, wheat fields, and the bridge over the Columbia at Astoria passing by as the Empress of the North, paddlewheel river boat, majestically glides through the waters of the Willamette, the Columbia, and the Snake Rivers. You don't have to leave your cabin to experience this grand scenery, but the activities on board, and the shore excursions on this seven-day cruise are so appealing, practically everyone on board participates.

Majestic America's paddle wheel river boats ply the waters of these three rivers from spring through late fall. Here's a chance to view your own backyard from an entirely new angle. I've seen these boats for years, gently going up and down the Columbia and wondered what the onboard passenger saw and how they spent their days. Curiosity got the best of me and for one week in April, I enjoyed the almost pristine view of the rivers that Lewis and Clark must have had. Of course, we had to transit eight locks to make the journey.



This adventure is so accessible for people in the Pacific Northwest it is sometimes overlooked. From the Gorge, to the high deserts of eastern Oregon and Washington, to the Snake in Idaho, winding up in Astoria on the return before docking in Portland one week later, the cruise offers a unique look at the Pacific Northwest not possible to see from the freeways.

Although built in 2003 with a totally modern engine, public rooms and cabins, its lacy exterior, complete with paddle wheel and a capacity to carry 225 passengers, the vessel calls up mental images of times long gone by-when these ships were the main method of travel on the rivers. The discovery of gold in Idaho in the mid 1800s opened up river traffic to the interior.

Early river travelers and certainly Lewis and Clark didn't experience the luxury we enjoyed. In the case of the Empress of the North, because it spends much of its time in Alaska during the summer months, the interior décor is inspired by the opulent splendor of Imperial Russia. Rich reds and golds greet passengers entering the Romanov Dining Room. All the spacious cabins have a Victorian feel, most with huge windows and private verandahs to enjoy the incredible views. Skimming through the waters, the scene changes with almost each revolution of the paddle wheel.

My traveling companion, Hazel (a buddy since college) and I had no prior experience with river boating. We joined about 175 other passengers, from all over the U.S.-New Hampshire, Pennsylvania, Michigan, Florida, Washington California, and Texas-but only discovered two other passengers from Oregon. A savvy group of travelers, many of whom had traveled world-wide, this group was awed by the natural wonders of these three great rivers, the mountains, the wildlife and the on- shore foliage made even more splendid by the incredible spring weather we encountered that week. The hills were like lush green velvet. It's awesome to be reminded of what natural treasures surround us.

We really had no idea of the adventures awaiting us. Hazel, always prepared, had brought along three books and the DVD of DeLovely (the Cole Porter story, plus an extra bottle of wine), to while away the hours as we cruised. She only managed to get through one chapter, the wine remained unopened, and although she tried to entice me to watch the DVD every night after dinner and Greg Lupton's piano-sing along in the Paddlewheel Lounge, I was too relaxed and content, and quite happy just to fall asleep lulled by a gentle rocking of the boat.

The pace on the rivers melts stress. Shades of showboats of old, the nightly dancing and singing of Eric Hadley and Lindy Eller in the Golden Nugget Showroom, made you think Howard Keel and Kathryn Grayson (musical stars of the 1950s classic movie Showboat) would be the next act. Many of the guests aboard joined 92-year-old Fred Knez and his wife Margaret, Arizonians who were celebrating their 66th wedding anniversary, and danced each night until the orchestra played its last tune. Says world-traveled Fred, "the trip I'm on now is my favorite one."

Leisurely breakfasts, lunches and four-course dinners fill the time between shore excursions and on-board lectures. Daytime activities end just in time to enjoy noted cookbook author Sara Moulton's "All-American Cocktail Hour" with hors d'oeuvers. Her mini-Reuben sandwiches (about 1/2 inch square), proved to be my Weight Watcher downfall. Yet, for those determined to exert some dietary control, half portions can be ordered in the dining room, and a choice of light breakfasts or lunches are served in the Calliopi Bar and Grill. Yet who could resist ordering the William Clark Filet or the Meriwether Lewis Lobster Tail, choices offered in the Romanov dining room the last night on board.

This trip, which concentrates on the footsteps of Lewis and Clark along the Snake and Columbia from Clarkston, Idaho to Astoria, transits eight dams and covers approximately 463 river miles one way. Going from sea level at Astoria to an elevation of 738 feet on the Lower Granite Dam on the Snake the geologic changes from the Gorge to the high desert, and then entering Hells Canyon are astounding. One passenger described the jet boat ride up Hell's canyon as "being in God's private rock garden." With the help of Pat Workman, onboard historian, passengers are educated about the various wonders along with the importance of the fur traders, the gold miners, the ranchers and frontiersmen who settled the Northwest.

The inclusion of shore excursions in the cost were an unexpected bonus. Stops at Stevenson, Washington at the Columbia Gorge Interpretive Center offered insights into the Gorge one doesn't get by driving through it. One day was devoted to Pendleton, Oregon where passengers were entertained in the Underground, the Pendleton Woolen Mills. With lunch at Hamley's Slickfork Saloon. The 'Wild & Wooly" image of the town was spotlighted. Blue Mountain Wildlife gave a close-up and educational presentation (including rehabilitated owls, eagles and osprey) at Tamastsliktt Cultural Institute on the Umatilla Indian Reservation that was a group highlight.

The outdoors and nature preempted anything else when we jet-boated over #3 Rapids 49 miles up the Snake. Certainly no McDonalds or Starbucks here. Many of the cabins on shore are accessible only by boat. Still we notice one cabin along the route, with no inside plumbing, was on the market for $425,000.

Several days later, we visited Mt. St. Helens, and were once again reminded of the power of nature. The view of the crater from the Visitor's Center is magnificent, and shows how much wildlife and foliage has returned since that fateful day in 1980. You can only imagine the devastation done in 1980 eruption. The impact of this volcanic explosion is brought home by a documentary film shown on board the buses as we return to the boat after having viewed the actual site.

Astoria and a visit to Ft. Clatsop, where Lewis and Clark wintered before returning East, is the final leg of this cruise. How surprised those two explorers and their crew would be to see the area as it is today; a bustling river town with ocean going vessels commercial and passenger, populating the water and replacing the economy that originally was based on fishing, furs, and the lumber industries.

Lewis and Clark took more than two years on their entire journey. They spent months in the Northwest and on these rivers. Unfortunately, we only had one week, but the impact was as mighty as the rivers we traversed. Like Lewis and Clark, we were guided by an all American crew, although theirs happened to be Native American. Unlike Lewis and Clark, our only hardship was unwrapping the individually wrapped home-baked cookies which were offered as daily treats, and, of course, not being able to stay awake to watch DeLovely!

SPECIAL NOTE: For a limited time, Majestic America Line is offering this trip on a 2 for 1 basis. Call 800-434-1232 for reservations or information or visit www.MajesticAmericaLine.com for details on this and on any of their other river cruise offerings including the Mississippi, the Ohio and the Tennessee rivers and their Alaska sailings.

GEORGIA:

JEKYLL ISLAND
Symbol of the Guilded Age with 21st Century Appeal

By Barbara Barton Sloane

“Mr. Rockefeller never feels so well as when he is enjoying the secluded and exclusive life which only this Paradise on earth affords.” So reported the Brunswick News on January 30, 1917. Ah, those millionaires! In the gilt-edged times of a century ago, the country’s rich journeyed to places like Saratoga New York, White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia and, of course, to Jekyll Island, Georgia, the particular paradise the Brunswick News referred to. I had the happy opportunity to visit Jekyll Island recently and can affirm that this destination continues to instill happiness and a sense of well-being in its visitors.

Fast Facts
Located on a Georgia barrier island of unusual natural beauty and recognized as a Natural Historical Landmark, the Jekyll Island Club was built in l886 as a hunting retreat for the nation’s wealthy elite and was the site of events and meetings of historic significance, including the first transcontinental phone call which was initiated in 1915 from the island by Theodore Vail, then president of AT&T. The fond memory of members of yore – J.P. Morgan, Jay Gould, Vincent Astor, William K. Vanderbilt, Marshall Field and others is kept alive at Jekyll Island by sepia photographs that line its halls.

Since that unique time in our history, not very much has changed at Jekyll Island. The Clubhouse, which is American Queen Ann in architectural style and the collection of adjacent structures have been splendidly restored, and is on Conde Nast Traveler’s Gold List and named one of America’s Dozen Distinctive Destinations.

The resort has 157 rooms and suites in five historic settings. There’s the Clubhouse adorned with turrets, bay windows, verandas, and views of rolling green lawns, the intracoastal waterway and vast marshlands. Additionally, there’s lodging at the Annex, San Souci, Crane Cottage and Cherokee Cottage. I stayed in the 81 year old Crane Cottage, an Italian Renaissance structure which recently underwent a multi-million dollar renovation. It was private, quiet, comfortable and full of turn-of-the-century charm. While there, I spent a pleasurable afternoon relaxing in the Crane Cottage gardens with a good book on a bench in the shade of a live oak tree. Jekyll Island lends itself to such pursuits, but make no mistake, if activity is your aim, there’s plenty here to keep you busy.

Something for Everyone
Jekyll Island is the site of Georgia’s largest public golf resort with 63 holes of challenging courses and year-round play. You can horseback ride, experience a horse-drawn carriage, walk the Tidelands Nature Center, go on a dolphin tour and have fun shopping the historic shops on Pier Road. For the extended, multi-generational family, this resort is ideal as most of the activities are geared for grandparents to tots. You’ll find a world of compelling contrasts: old and new, rich history and modern comforts, grand surroundings and simple pleasures, energizing sports and complete relaxation. March ushers in several fun-filled events on the island: on the 5th, the Spring Wine Event with a tasting paired with foods that complement the wines. On March 7th, the Jekyll Island Arts Festival takes place with competitions, exhibits, a raffle, a bake sale, entertainment, and high-quality art at the right price. On March 22nd, there’s the annual Easter Festival. This is a family event with children’s activities, food and art vendors, live music, a pooch parade and more! And on the last Sunday of each month, the Club holds a dinner dance in the Grand Dining Room with gourmet dining and dancing to a live band.

Plan a Stress-Free Wedding
In the day, birding on this island was a favorite pastime. Today, it is, instead, briding and romance is clearly in the air. While I was having a Victorian tea in the parlor, I watched a couple being married on the lawn as another bride in a strapless confection swooshed by my table with three of her bridesmaids. Destination weddings are popular today, and a growing number of couples want to return to traditional ceremonies reflecting family values. Choosing Jekyll Island for your wedding almost guarantees it will be stress-free. They offer several complete wedding packages with a beachfront or riverfront ceremony. They provide the minister, the photographer and a tiered wedding cake. Stressless and wedding? Words not mutually exclusive here.


Have a Close Encounter with a Sea Turtle
Jekyll Island is home to the new $2.5 Million Sea Turtle Center whose goal is to enhance public awareness of this endangered species and to provide rehabilitation for injured or ill sea turtles. I had the opportunity to visit this Center and was impressed with the heroic efforts for sea turtle conservation that take place here. Later, I stopped by the Lobby Bar to sample bartender Kenny Bjorn’s “Turtletini,” a cocktail created as a salute to the sea turtles that swim thousands of miles to Jekyll Island’s beach each summer.

Make Jekyll Island a Family Tradition
If you plan to visit, be aware that there are homes you can rent, “cottages” you can buy, or you can just simply fly down, rent a room at the Club, sit on its sprawling porch in a wicker chair and watch grass grow. Jekyll Island, an unhurried kind of place, lends itself well to just such laid-back activities. Fifty percent of the resort’s visitors are repeat customers as families pass the tradition of vacationing here from generation to generation. Visit Jekyll Island and you’ll have a truly luxurious and memorable landmark experience.


Planning to go?
Jekyll Island Club Hotel
371 Riverview Drive, Jekyll Island Georgia 31527
Tel: 912.635.2600/Fax 912.635.2818
www.jekyllclub.com e: mail@jekyllclub.com


HAWAII

Maui County is more---more history, more activities, more hotels, just plain more fun!

One of my editors, Beverlee Johnson, and I were guests of the Maui Visitors Bureau for a sampling of tropical paradise this Fall.

We spent almost two weeks exploring the wonders of Maui County (Molokai, Lanai and Maui, Hawaii) It was a taste treat that left me hungering for more. In fact, if I’d been there any longer I probably would have acquired a tattoo and a parrot! Each Island of the county speaks with its own personality. Each managed to seduce us in its own way.

Molokai, known as the Friendly Island, home to the second biggest cattle ranch in the islands, and a long time haven for lepers before the disease was treatable, preserves the ambience of Old Hawaii. Perhaps a Hawaii of 50 years ago. With only 7,000 people on the whole isle, a couple days here and you feel like part of the family, calling everyone by first name, knowing who is a cousin to whom, and thoroughly enjoying the extended hospitality.

There are several motel/apartment complexes on the island, but we were fortunate to stay at The Lodge at Molokai Ranch (www.molokairanch.com) Definitely deluxe. The buildings are only two stories high (nothing allowed that is taller than a coconut tree on this isle), but the views overlooking the garden, pool and beyond to the Pacific are awesome. No postcard captures those sunsets. The rooms have ‘country décor’,( upscale country for sure) and the dining room is a short walk away in the main Lodge. Friday and Saturday nights The Lodge rocks with music provided by locals---Bo Perez (Molokai’s answer to Tony Bennett) and his group put on a show that could easily be a Las Vegas lounge show. But no, the musicians in this group love and live on Molokai.

Sunday mornings, Uncle Jimmy, the 5th generation paniolo on the ranch holds a worship hour in the stable area. With the barn swept clean, a white sheet covering a table from which he preaches, and with a saddle on either side to remind everyone where he is, and who he is, Uncle Jimmy dispenses his word of the day. And always he stresses, “Keep It Simple. “ A message worth remembering. Other days of the week he can be found running the Molokai Cowboy Connection on the ranch which offers guided horse tours, rodeos, fundamentals and hauling. The Molokai Rodeo, which he founded, takes place in October and has turned into a grand festival.

The Ranch also offers tentalows in its beach village. The tents are almost like camping out, but with a few amenities to assure your comfort. Tentalows are great for family vacations or those who want to “rough it, with style.” Spend time with Anakala Pilipo Solatorio, Molokai’s Story Teller who can be found on the grounds. His mission is to preserved the history of the island and its natives. The garden he has created here showcases many of the indigenous plants.

Molokai is in the midst of a controversy right now---those for and against development are locked in debate. Many of the locals don’t want their island to ever change, but others say they must progress if they are going to continue to exist. Right now, the white sand beaches and the golf courses are almost empty…there is no traffic problem. In fact there are NO traffic lights on the entire island. Development will bring change, and that is the debate. But for right now, Molokai remains a pristine paradise, just waiting to be discovered.

Lana’i, with a population of 3000, beckons tourists with three hotels, The Four Season Lana’i at Manele Bay and The Lodge at Koele both offering every imaginable amenity are 5 star for sure. You could stay in either and never venture out. The Hotel Lana’i original clapboard plantation style, and in the little town, is more like a country inn and very charming in its own way. Once the pineapple capital, tourism is now the major industry. The island made headlines a few years ago when Bill Gates selected it for the site of his wedding and rented the entire island. Now I’m told, he and an Arab prince own the two major hotels here.

Lana’i has long expanses of undiscovered beach front—great snorkeling, scuba diving, surfing and fishing are not crowded and hard to beat. We spent one afternoon exploring Lana’i City, the only community on the island. The core area of this sleepy little town surrounds Dole Park, with many shops, restaurants and art galleries. This has become quite a colony for artists and we had the chance to meet some well known artists, like Mike Carroll and Jordan Weinstein face-to-face. The backgrounds of the various denizens who live here is varied, but they all seemed to move here because the lifestyle and the island captured them. Many came to visit and never left.

Suffering from a bit of ‘sticker shock’ at the 5 Star hotel restaurants, we enjoyed a sandwich and a beer at Pele’s Other Garden, just across from the Park, all for $8.00. Lana’i, like Molokai operates on “Hawaiian Time.” Nothing is rushed, things all happen in their own time. Definitely a place to unwind.

About an hour’s ferry ride away from Lana’i is the highly developed island of Maui. Coming into the picturesque Lahaina harbor we were face to face with civilization and a much more rushed state of being. Still, the Maui magic prevailed as we made the 45 minute drive from Lahaina to Wailea and ensconced ourselves in the fabulous Grand Wailea (www.grandwailea.com) for two nights. The grand marble lobby with all the orchids, the water treatments, the Aloha welcome.. Yes indeed, it is GRAND. Our every want was satisfied. The only thing we missed was dining at the hotel’s famed Humuhumunukunukuapua’s & Botero Bar. But as we slid into our cloudlike beds with the very high sheet thread count, we were able to contain our disappointment.

Having visited Maui many times, we went for some of the more 'untouristy' activities this time like traveling to Upcountry and enjoying this culinary specialty of tea and scones in Ali’is Kula Lavender Garden. www.aliikulalavender.com Not only does the lavender bring out a special flavor, it is said to have healing powers too. After touring the gardens we made our way to Bev and Joe Gannon’s General Store in Haleimaile for a chance to again sample Bev’s signature crab sandwich appetizer. Although she’s been asked for the recipe many times, it is still a state secret---“Maybe, when I die,” she says, “I will put it on my tombstone.”

My traveling companion left me on my own to further explore Maui for the balance of the trip. Wailuku, the county seat, had a Friday night festival while I were there. This old town reeks atmosphere along with interesting shopping.
One of my favorite finds was “If The Shoe Fits” where the shop owner then adds, “Buy it in every color. On the web at www.hotbiskitshoes.com , this shop offers exciting choices in sandals and accessories. With shoe sizes up to 15, most everyone can find a fit, comfortable and classy.. I added to the national debt here.

As far as I’m concerned, you can’t visit Maui without spending time in Ka’anapali, so for 2 nights I lodged at the old Ka’anapali Beach Hotel-(www.kbhmaui.com )--not 5 Star by going standards, but in my book one of the most endearing hotels in the islands. Built in the 70s, directly on a great stretch of beach, it remains one of the few hotels privately owned anywhere. The hotel has been ranked #1 as best value in the state of Hawaii by the prestigious TRAVEL & LEISURE magazine. The mission of Ka’anapali Beach is to maintain the Hawaiian way of life, nurturing customs, foods, arts—anything that pertains to native. The fact most of the help has been there for years, speaks of the high morale, and this rubs off on the guests. Award winning chef Tom Muromoto offers many tropical choices on his menu—one being the nationally acclaimed Hawaiian Diet (steamed fish, poi, and fruit) for guests trying to maintain a healthy lifestyle while on vacation.

I love it here— live Hawaiian music floats up to your room until about 10 pm. The gardens surrounding the whale shaped swimming pool invite you to just sit and soak up that wonderful, fragrant, tropical air. It’s a hard place to leave, but when it comes time for Aloha, each guest is gifted with a kukui lei. Each time the guest returns, a white kukui nut is added to the original brown nuts of the lei, a prized possession and a recognition of status for veteran visitors.

A short drive from Ka’anapali is the Maui Ocean Center-the Hawaiian Aquarium,. www.mauioceancenter.com Don’t overlook this Center. It is Hawaii’s top rated family attraction. You don’t have to be a family to enjoy the journey through a sea of life. Over 60 exhibits teaming with coral, fish, turtles, sharks & sea jellies. .This is an up close look at Hawaii’s marine life. Particularly wonderful if you haven’t had a chance to snorkel or scuba dive.

A perfect Maui sunset let me know my visit was about to end. With tropical scents, the warm air, and a little sand still between my toes, I knew even the most perfect visit was over. The Hawaiian saying “Aloha and a hui hoi” is etched in my memory and comforted me:--- ‘good-bye and until we meet again.”

MISSOURI:
BRANSON IS FULL OF SURPRISES--It's not all music!

Veterans are a valuable resource. Fred Hoppe, Nebraska artist literally took things in his own hands to honor the vets when he sculpt the 70 foot long, 15 ton bronze consisting of 50 life-size soldiers storming a beach. Each figure is modeled after an actual combat veteran, one from each of the fifty states. For instance, Bob Dole represents Kansas. Hoppe donated the sculpture (valued at 3 million dollars) to the Veterans Memorial Museum, Branson, MO. In addition he has collected and written the text for over 2000 rare military artifacts which he donated. Incidentally, his father is the lead soldier in the bronze of soldiers storming the beach.

The main hall of the museum has over 150 feet of walls covered with the names of over 400,000 men and women killed in WWII. This is the only place in the world where a complete list of these names has been displayed. The other five halls in the museum honor veterans from WWI, WWII, Korea,Vietnam, Persian Gulf and other conflicts and include a list of all those killed in the line of duty in all other engagements of the 20th Century (except WW!).

Travel to Branson is not complete without a visit to this fine museum...one of the best kept secrets in the country and certainly an unexpected surprise to find in Branson. So moving. Hoppe chose this location because the town is so patriotic he thought it would be well represented here, and his decision was Right On! Take a break from the 49 theaters, and immerse yourself in US history.

MUSIC IN THE HEARTLAND- A Different Reason to See the Real America
By Corinne Brown
(My colleague and author Corinne Brown has again contributed her current information for middle America for your reading pleasure.)

The music capitals of America are legendary -- New York and Boston for Classical, New Orleans for Jazz, Austin for Rockabilly, Nashville for Country, and Chicago for some Southside Urban Blues. But what about the great mid-West, or Missouri, for that matter -- Branson in particular, possibly the musical pulse of America’s heartland. Yes, music lovers, you haven't lived until you’ve listened to Roots Music at Silver Dollar City in Branson, Missouri, or whetted your bluegrass whistle at the Acoustic Music Festival in Winfield, (Walnut Valley) Kansas.

Drive, Cycle or Fly
Thirty-six years ago, the finest bluegrass festival anywhere was born in a cornfield in Cowley County, Kansas. It became the Walnut Valley Acoustic Music Festival and grew to become of the greatest musical gatherings anywhere, to include performances by finger style guitarists (all instrumental), award-winning Celtic, cowboy, and acoustic folk musicians, superb flat pickers on banjo and guitar, cloggers, fiddlers, mandolin, dulcimer, and bass players, master of the harp guitar, and just about any other kind of expression on a stringed instrument you can think of. Musical legends like multi-Grammy winning artist Allison Krauss actually got her start here. Winfield and its acoustic music is both a festival and a state of mind, truly a launch point and home stage for many of the nation’s finest Americana music performers.

Held the 3rd weekend in September each year, rain or shine, the first audience turnout originally boasted some 300 loyal bluegrass fans. Fast-forward three decades: last fall’s record attendance tipped 14,000 persons. This is an event almost as big as Woodstock, but a lot more organized, a musical miracle that comes to life through the tireless efforts of an army of volunteers.

Located 35 miles Southeast of Wichita, and held on the Walnut Valley Fairgrounds, the event combines food, music and assorted mercantile vendors in the midst of sprawling campgrounds and four sound stages (three outdoor and one indoor) that schedule performers from morning through night for four glorious days. A golf tourney, flat picking championships, new song competition, a warm-up picnic, and all manner of musical workshops fill the schedule Thursday thru Sunday.

Some 800 RV hookups allow for self-contained RV living with access to electrical, port-o-lets and water, plus services (tank clean out, water and ice delivery ,etc.) Showers and fabulous food concessions give you everything else you need for a perfect music vacation. Open land along the Walnut River and surrounding fields account for several thousand campsites, creating informal jamming centers where like-minded musicians swap songs and jam together under colorful tents. Over a hill, the “Pecan Grove” accommodates another 5000 diehards, mostly the younger set. Here the music never stops and an “alternative” stage presents exciting talent around the clock.

The nearby town of Winfield can provide for a few hundred souls in local Bed & Breakfasts and independent motels, while in nearby Wichita, anyone who doesn't mind a short commute, can be comfortable in a wide range of hotels offering excellent accommodations. Or, you might fly in and rent an RV, then join the on-site crowd on the premises. Whatever your choice, book early. Check www.wvfest.org for complete scheduling, ticket reservations, accommodation suggestions, and the coming year’s stellar lineup. You’ll be glad you did.


If music’s in your blood and you can’t get enough, head straight on down to the Midwest’s entertainment capital, Branson, Missouri -- home to the internationally awarded 1880’s theme park known as Silver Dollar City, a beautiful site in the scenic Ozark mountains. Less than an hour from Springfield, Branson is a place where you can lose yourself in a smorgasbord of entertainment possibilities, over 400 in all. An estimated 7.8 million visitors came to stay and play in 2006, to listen to the music, stroll the festival grounds, and sample the over 400 restaurants or play on any of the 12 golf courses, and sleep and relax in any of the 205 lodging facilities. The Branson/Lakes Area offers 48 theaters and more than 100 shows, from breakfast through late evening. Even classical and Broadway style music and productions, as well as pop, swing and rock n’roll concerts, plus shows with magic and humor, round out the endless offering.

Silver Dollar City hosted six specific festivals in 2007 drawing fresh talent from all over the globe, including the World Fest where hundreds of singers dancers and musicians performed. Visitors enjoyed acrobats from China, a Scottish pipe band, Polynesian fire/knife dancers and more. The month of May brought the Bluegrass and BBQ Fest with celebrity performers like Rhonda Vincent and bluegrass legend Ricky Skaggs, to name a few. June thru August offered Circus of the Century – On Ice, and also a Kid Concoctions creativity center. Each Fall enjoy the Festival of American Music and Crafts, including a "Salute to the Great American Cowboy "

It’s easy to reserve a motel, lodge or deluxe room at any of the hundreds of rooms available in and around Branson and then fill your heart and soul with the lineup of stellar musicians playing country, gospel, bluegrass and of course, western music. An extra bonus -- the annual Best of American Boot Makers complements the music, and a new show arena will showcase more western fun.

In short, you can’t beat the variety and entertainment value in this all-American resort, the perfect place to have fun and relax, truly one of the top vacation destinations in the country. For festival and ticket info, call 1-800-831-4fun or go to www.silverdollarcity.com

OREGON:

BULLS, BRONCS and BRAVADO!

Pendleton, OR comes alive annually the second full week in September! The town with a usual population of 17,000 swells to over 50,000 as crowds converge from around-the-world to attend the Pendleton Round-Up and Happy Canyon nightly pageant. As they say in Pendleton, “Saddle Up!” The action is non-stop. Top cowboys and cowgirls compete in PRCA sanctioned rodeo events, hoping to get to the National Finals Rodeo in Las Vegas. The cowboys call this the toughest and wildest rodeo in existence today, and the audience roars its approval .

The grass seeded arena and the Indian Teepee Village on the rodeo grounds add to the daily glamour.. Here old West meets new, as the latest techniques for caring for livestock are employed. Still the show has many of the same events it had in its beginning year 1910.

Night time brings a change in tempo as Happy Canyon presents its unique version of the settling of the West, The Indian side of the story, with Native Americans who have passed their roles down from generation to generation since the inception in 1916. They don’t need a script, they follow the music and whatever their forefathers did. The animals, oxen, horses and mules, seems to know their parts just as well. The Frontier action in the second part of the show is funky fun, with reminders of what Pendleton frontier was in the early 1900s.

Tickets sell out fast. And room accommodations are a priority. The Pendleton Chamber of Commerce coordinates reservations for this event. Call them at 800-547-8911 and become a part of this living adventure. Time to don your boots and hats and settle in for an unequaled experience of the American West this September!


Mark you calendars right now for the PENDLETON CATTLE BARONS’ WEEKEND, April 11 &12, 2008. This is going to be a first class production featuring a Bred Heifers and Performance horse sale, A Wild West Show, Music, Food, and Fun ending with the Cattle Barons’ Ball on Saturday night. If you’ve never line-danced—here’s your chance. The whole town is getting into the act, so make your plans early and join in the Western style frolicing good times eastern Oregon is noted for. (800-863-9358 for details). Accommodations are always a premium in Pendleton, first come, first served. Consider PENDLETON HOUSE B&B,(800-700-8581) an elegant Italian Renaissance mansion, right on Main Street, just up the hill from downtown, and walkable to all the venues in the core area. Or check with the Chamber of Commerce for accommodation suggestions. (800-547-8911).

While in Pendleton, be sure to stop and shop at HAMLEY'S (www.hamley.com). Take a look at the one-of-a-kind concho belts created by the master Wayne Harris and carried in the store. His inlays of turquoise and coral are perfection, and you certainly won’t see someone else wearing your identical belt. Worth the investment, since his creations are becoming more and more well known and increasing in value.





Speaking of Hamley's, The HAMLEY STEAKHOUSE is celebrating its grand opening in style November 12-18. Daily featured lunch and dinner entrees, a dance in the Slickfork Saloon November 17. Here's the chance for the Eastside to meet the Westside. Come just as you are.

The Steakhouse, opened since June, 2007 is becoming known for its ribeye steaks and onion crusted prime rib. The cowboys seem to favor the 28 ounce bone-in steak, while other customers often split it.

A TURN TO THE WILD SIDE

By Ann Terry Hill


A trip to the Wallowas calls out for two “soft” adventures; riding The Eagle Cap Excursion Train which started operation in late 2003, and taking the Wallowa Tram ride, which carries you to the 8150 summit of Mt. Howard and has been operating since the 70s. Two different experiences that are fun and safe.

Both outings offer views not seen from the highway, or in the town. And, because the train is air-conditioned, and every 1000 feet the tram rises it is accompanied by a 3 degree drop in temperature, even on the most sweltering Wallowa County day, you can relax in comfort and just enjoy the scenery.

Every point in Joseph is within 5 minutes time from your location in the town... The Eagle Cap Excursion Train departs from a field directly across from the Chief Joseph Rodeo Stadium. You just park your car in the field adjacent to the tracks, or walk the several blocks.

Promptly at 1 PM, The Eagle Cap train let out a shrill whistle, alerting all the passengers it was about to take off from its departure point. The sun was shining brightly on this late July afternoon, the Wallowa Mountains were cast in a deep blue shade with small caps of snow still hugging their peaks, and the passenger cars were air-conditioned. All pieces were in place for a scenic, relaxing 3-1/2 hour meander through the Wallowa Valley to Lostine and back, even though the temperature outside was over 90.

This particular run was the Meadows Meander which travels from Joseph, through Enterprise to Lostine and back, allowing the passengers prime views of the mountains, the creek lined with cottonwoods and willows and the grassy meadows. You also see livestock ,haying, irrigation and wildlife including deer. and the occasional Bald and/or Golden Eagle. There are 1500 plant species and 236 bird varieties in the county. Volunteers on board offer lectures and detailed information on what you are seeing.

The train is made up of four antique rail cars and the engine. The baggage car was built in 1962 and is now used as the gift shop where you can buy Eagle Cap souvenirs. The dining car was built in 1947 and has tables where you can eat the snacks or meal you have purchased on board. The Red Car (built in 1938) and the Coach Car circa 1947 give you the old-fashioned train feel. A little rustic, perhaps, but so in keeping with the surrounding area.

Different itineraries on different days of the week. You can take you choice of the Meadow Meander which takes about 3.5 hours, or the Ruby Run which goes only to Enterprise and takes about 1.5 hours, or you can take the Valley Voyage which travels from Wallowa to Joseph and back to Wallowa and takes 4.5 hours, with lunch served on board. One of the most exciting excursions is the Canyon Cruise which travels down the Wallowa River past the active Wallowa Wood Products mill. It then ventures into roadless canyon country at the confluence of the Wallowa and Minam Rivers. This is where you’ll have the best opportunity of seeing wild\life and majestic scenery. Lunch is included on this trip which covers 40 miles and takes 4.5 hours.

The train also offers excursions from nearby Minam several times during the year. Check their website www.eaglecaptrain.com for March Weekend Fishing excursions which go down river from Minam. The Minam Motel offers these weekends in conjunction with the train. 541.437.4475 for details.

With a little extra time to spare either before or after the rail excursion, make the effort to drive up to Wallowa Lake and take the Tram to the top of Mt. Howard. This 15 minute ride in a four-passenger gondola leaves you gasping for more as you reach the height of 8150 feet is the steepest ascent four passenger gondola ride in North America. The trip itself is easy and comfortable. The gondola barely sways. Once on top you have the choice of many hiking trails which are mapped out on a board near the Summit Grill, giving you the amount of time to allow and the difficulty of each hike., eating lunch, or simply enjoying the awesome view.

The squirrels and chipmunks at the top seem to have their own radar system, and know immediately if you have sunflower seeds, corn, or any other tidbit which might tempt them. (You can buy a bag of this feed at the Summit Grill for $1.00) It’s inspiring to sit there with the mountains and the lake sprawled out before you, in the utter silence of the outdoors. Only a little chipmunk poking at your leg to remind you his cheeks still have room for more seeds, brings you back to reality.

One highly recommended place to stay during your visit is the Bronze Antler Bed & Breakfast in Joseph. In operation for 5 years, it won the prestigious 2005 Book of Lists Award as the best mountain retreat. Sleeping on the down pillows and mattresses are “down”right worth the trip. A breakfast egg souffle with a spinach cream sauce, or the signature Belgian Chocolate Fudge Brownies will leave you sated but gleefully satisfied. Request the Chief Joseph room filled with antiques and with the mountain view. Who could ask for more? But , yes, there is more…the Bronze Antler will have its new luxury suite ready for occupancy in April. Italian tiles, vaulted ceiling, Japanese toilet, king sized four poster bed---you can hardly find time to enjoy the exquisite view of the mountains, you will be so busy enjoying the ambiance of your accommodations.

The Wallowas are noted for rugged outdoor beauty. Hiking, horseback riding, snow sports, fishing, hunting. You will find it all in this secluded, pristine part of eastern Oregon.

RIDING THE RAILS OF HISTORY
(Portland’s Union Station)

By Ann Terry Hill


The romantic wail of the incoming train, track # 5, Union Station. Portland, Oregon is r welcomes rail passengers. Once the vortex of travel in and out of Portland, this venerable station, built in the early 1890s, on the National Historic Register since 1975 , is a step back in time. For Amtrak passengers passing through its antique brass doors today, it speaks to times when rail travel reigned supreme. The grandeur of yesteryear is preserved with very few changes since a renovation in 1930. As you enter the station, take a look around you, and notice the fine detail; the marble, the wood paneling. Soak up the history.

This landmark was conceived and built on the landfill of Lake Couch. 5000+wood pilings were used to stabilize the ground underneath.. Begun in 1890, the station received its first passengers in 1896. The red brick exterior of the station has not changed much from the original. For the most part its basic shape remains. The clock tower was added in 1898 while the interior received an extensive renovation in 1930.

The renovation in ‘30 saw the addition of Italian marble throughout the main lobby covering the walls and floor. Prior to the remodel there were 16 pillars holding up the ceiling. These were removed to make a better passenger flow. A young architect Pietro Belluschi, from the Portland firm A.E.Doyle, who later gained national recognition for many of his designs, including the PanAm building in New York, did the initial planning.

The chandeliers are from 1930. Notice the cone like shape ornament at the top of each of the 8 fixtures in the lobby. These were actually part of the public address system---high fidelity in their day. The basic plaster work on the ceiling with the Shasta Daisy flower is well preserved. The walnut benches are vintage 1930. The mahogany ticket office at the west end of the station was added in the 50s. Until that time, the ticket counter was by the gates.

When the City of Portland took over the station in 1987, they repaintied the ceiling and touched up the decorative side stencils. Amtrak worked with the City to remove some of the non-historical elements like old signs and fluorescent lights. They wanted it to resemble the 30s look as much as possible.

The Seth Thomas clock, one of Portland’s most recognizable landmarks, in the 144 feet high clock tower, has run continuously since 1898. It runs for 8 days, but is hand wound every 7.. According to WINDOWS TO THE PAST, A Union Station Album, each of the four faces of this clock are 12 feet,2 inches in diameter with a minute hand 6 feet long and an hour hand 5 feet long. The familiar neon signs GO BY TRAIN and UNION STATION were added in 1948.

Scott Hurd started out as a Red Cap with Amtrak in 1975 and is now station manager. Over the years he has witnessed the gradual changes and the honor when the station was placed on the National Historic Register. An amateur historian , he delights in giving tours through the station and showing off the artifacts he collected when the park in front of the station was added. His diggings unearthed treasures from the stores that used to occupy that space and are now displayed in antique cases in the baggage annex. Old phone booths have been renovated and are now in use, although Hurd suggests” you have to be pretty skinny to fit inside a 30s phone booth!” He points out the Metropolitan Lounge, for the extra comfort of Pullman passergers, which was added to the waiting area at his suggestion. The regular passenger waiting room walls have murals of old Union Pacific scenes that were taken from old UP calendars.

To add to your pleasure while waiting for connections between trains, or before or after your journey, enjoy Wilfs Restaurant & Bar at the south end of the station. Wilfs opened in 1975 and is now a Portland landmark, serving up fine lunches and dinners. All organic fare, mostly from local products, and sure to please the most jaded traveler.. Wilfs signature salad is a menu staple, along with Steak Diane. The Painted Hills beef has no added hormones or antibiotics. Once you’ve tasted it, this entrée will distinguish itself for its flavor and tenderness.

Locals and celebrities alike love this gathering place and enjoy their meals, including live jazz on Thursday, Friday & Saturday nights, while lounging in the classic red wing backed chairs that allow comfort and privacy. Paul Newman is often a guest when in town. (And he loves their classic salad dressing!)

For those interested in exploring the surroundings outside the station, Portland’s Pearl District begins two blocks away. With over 100 city blocks of shopping, dining and cultural attractions, you can find something for any budget. It’s an adventure to hop on the streetcar on NW 10th for easy access throughout the District.


Oregon Coast Notes

Oregon’s 363 mile stretch of uninterupted rugged coast line is protected from encroachment and entirely opened to the public….you can enjoy the entire expanse with beach activities such as surfing, sand castle building, horseback riding, kite flying, whale watching, fishing, hiking, parasailing, picnicking and the ever popular lay-in-the-sand- and-do- absolutely- nothing activity. Highway 101 which transits the coast from north to south will take you through some of the most scenic areas in the United States, as well as routing you through many quaint beach towns. Be ready to get your fill of salt water taffy and fresh clam chowder, along with many other marine specialties.

The beaches around Lincoln City are a special delight where from October to Memorial Day local artisans create more than 2,000 blown glass floats and release them in the Pacific. To find one is a special treasure. The old glass floats from the Far East are few and far between and are hoarded. Try your luck, and you can always purchase one in a local shop if your beach search comes up empty handed. (We don’t tell!) www.pyromaniaglass.com

The quaint and cozy rooms perched next to Heceta Head Lighthouse overlook the mighty Pacific and offer one of the best vantage points for storm and marine wildlife watching on the Oregon Coast. Heceta Head is only one of a few lighthouses across the country that offers overnight accommodations. www.hecetaheadlighthouse.com

Florence, a coastal town known for stunning ocean views and sweeping sand dunes is perfect for the fast growing adrenaline sport of sandboarding (like snow boarding only warmer). The town is home to the first sandboarding park in the United States (www.SandmasterPark.com) which offers 40 acres of private sculpted dunes, chutes, bowls and rail slides. If you’re not into sandboarding, the area is also perfect for Off-roading, hiking, photography and fishing.

TRAVEL OREGON
www.traveloregon.com


Notes from Eastern Oregon

Northwest Oregon’s popular Eagle Cap Excursion Train begins its fifth season of operation on Saturday, April 26 with a 3.5 hour trip that highlights the colors and beauty of Spring in thw Wallowa country. Mary Ann Keyser, Excursion train coordinator says, “It’s a great time for seeing all kinds of birds and wildlife along the river.” Most trips this year depart from Elgin at the western end of the line and journey directly into the roadless canyons of the Grande Ronde River and the “Wild & Scenic” Wallowa River. The excursions are a photographer’s and wildlife watcher’s paradise. The Eagle Cap Excursion Train is operated by the Wallowa Union Railroad with assistance from the Friends of Joseph Branch. It runs on the historic line that winds for 63 miles between Elgin and Joseph in scenic northweast Oregon. Go to www.eagleaaptrain.com for full schedule and trip descriptions. Tickets for all excursions are available now through Allegre Travel, 1.800.323.7330.

Portland

A DAY IN PORTLAND’S CLASSICAL CHINESE GARDEN
By Ann Terry Hill

“Awake, oh north wind and come, thou south; blow upon my garden, that the spices thereof may flow out.” Ecclesiastics - The Song of Solomon

I go to the Classical Chinese Garden each season. It is ever changing and presenting new scenes for me. It is a place where I find peace, harmony and solitude in a glorious setting. Its elements are a blending of all the senses. It’s the tale of feeling, awareness and impressions, the symbolisms and the silences that are included. I not only see the garden, I hear it and smell it. The five components of the Garden - water, stone, architecture, plants and literature - are all present in this city block oasis of downtown Portland.

In accordance with Chinese beliefs, good energy flows throughout the garden. The roofs curve upward at the corners and are decorated with tiles that resemble bats, which reflect happiness in the Chinese culture. Chinese believe evil travels in straight lines, hence, the curved roof. Everything has meaning - each stone, each plant, each tree, each building.







Many of the doors in the various buildings are round. There are no straight paths - all zigzag to confuse the evil spirits. Almost maze-like, some paths lead you on; some take you to a dead end. With each visit to the garden, the details become more overwhelming and more beautiful. It takes several visits to assimilate all there is to see.

It’s also recommended to have a guide to enjoy it to its fullest. A tour will help you understand why a particular rock is placed ‘just so', and the guide will provide explanations on the various carvings and different sections of the garden so you will understand the delicate balance of its design. The Lounge House, or "Reflections in Clear Ripples” as its Chinese name states, is situated to give maximum views of the water and the garden. All windows have a view to the outside so the owner and his guests can enjoy the beauty outside while being entertained or meditating inside.

The garden is a place of contrasts - good vs. evil, the mountain vs. the valley and the Yin and Yang (male and female) always together. Completely surrounded by a wall, the garden is a place to seek tranquility in the heart of the city. I am oblivious to street noises once I enter the gates and stop at the Scholar’s tree, which is over 100 years old and was donated to the garden by a Portland citizen. It is a place for intellect and spirit as well.

For a botanical neophyte like myself, this garden is a delight. Audio sets can be rented and all you have to do is press the corresponding number when you see a numbered sign that resembles a gingko leaf and the tape will explain the item number in detail. For instance, I was taken by an oddly shaped pine next to the lake. Upon pressing Item No. 32 on the audio piece, the tape explained that it was a transplanted Shore Pine from Manzanita that was over 50 years old, and sculpted in Japanese design. The gardeners decided to include it because it was so unusual and although it was not Chinese. They liked the story of the man who had raised it from a seedling. The tape goes on to explain that the willow tree by the water symbolizes welcome in the Chinese culture. The Tea House is the perfect setting to rest a bit, enjoy some Chinese tea and snacks and let the surroundings envelop you.

Thoughts of the garden began in 1985 when Northwest Natural Gas donated the city block between Northwest Second and Third Streets and Everett and Flanders. The size of the garden is just short of 43,000 square feet or one acre. It’s the result of a collaboration of design teams from Portland and Suzhou, China, Portland’s sister city. Working together, the teams adapted construction codes of the first millennium to U.S. Construction Codes of the third millennium while maintaining the timeless artistic style of a Suzhou garden.

Suzhou is located about 40 miles west of Shanghai. Founded in 525 B.C., it is one of China’s oldest cities. It has been described as “heaven on earth” with its mild all-year-round climate.

The gardens of Suzhou began around 900 A.D. They were essentially townhouses constructed by wealthy retired civil servants who had the resources to create living environments filled with symbolism. Water is always the central element in the garden because Suzhou is a city blessed with water.

First opened in September of 2000, projections were for 100,000 visitors annually. It has far exceeded those expectations and in 2007 welcomed 140,000 visitors. Gloria Lee,Executive Director of the garden says “The high attendance is due to the uniqueness of the garden. There is nothing else like it in the West.” Lee continues, “We’ve experienced a huge interest in the botanical aspects of the garden that we did not originally anticipate. Life at the Garden is good.”

The overall design represents the Chinese philosophy of duality of nature, incorporating both the Taoist and Confucian views. The buildings represent the order and hierarchy of Confucius and the landscape represents the Taoist view of chaotic nature. As with everything Chinese, there is a visual aspect. Each stone in the ground was carefully placed by hand after being shipped here from Lake Tai in China.

Portland’s garden is a showplace every month of the year. In February, the Chinese Paper Bush will start blooming. The aroma is awesome. Certain plants are orchestrated to bloom each month, like the flowering plum tree which blooms in the winter and is a symbol of long life because its blooms appear on apparently lifeless and dead branches. The pathway that resembles crackling ice in the Scholar’s Courtyard also represents winter. This particular day in early June when I visited, the garden radiated the floral scent of peony blooms and the exhibit in The Hall of Brocade Clouds of the cut blossoms, pink, red and white petals was awesome.

As I gazed around me at the rocks, the water, the plants and the buildings, I was reminded of Wen Zhengnming’s (1470-1559) words:

“Most cherished in this mundane
world is a place without traffic;
truly in the midst of a city
there can be mountain and forest.”

At the Portland Classical Chinese Garden things haven’t changed much since he penned those thoughts.

For details and events:
www.portlandclassicalchinesegarden.org

SPOTLIGHT ON ASTORIA
By Ann Terry Hill

Lights-Camera The LIBERTY! The newly renovated Liberty Theater (or theatre) whichever you prefer, has impacted the entire Astoria area. There is a renaissance happening in this small town of 10,000 and the 600 seat theater is at the core of the revitalization. An enlarged stage, restored oil paintings, and touches such as 18 karat gold paint highlighting the molding on interior walls makes this 1920s vaudevillian palace a show place for today’s live entertainment. New hotels, fabulous restaurants, and the good vibes one gets from an involved community augment the theater and make a visit here an occasion.

Lewis & Clark stopped over in 1805-6 and the fur traders, known as Astorians, (after John Jacob Astor), came in 1811 to trade with the Indians. They all recognized the beauty and potential of this coastal-Columbia River front area. Although Oregon City challenges this, Astoria claims to be the oldest American settlement west of the Rockies, even if the British did occupy it for a few years in its early development. You are surrounded by the past here.

Today Lewis and Clark’s eyes, and those of the fur traders would pop! Often covered with an Oregon mist, when the sun does shine through, the smell of fresh water—sea winds—and blossoming shrubs are revitalizing to a visitor.

The hills are adorned with Victorian homes, many restored, some just waiting for a new owner. (Real estate prices have skyrocketed in the last three years.) The downtown is a mix of kitschy buildings. Most have been around since after the great fire of 1922. It’s easy to find your way around, everything seems to spin off east/west running Marine Drive and Commerce Street which is parallel to it. Five minutes and you can be